Iceland: Part 2

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Here's part two of my Iceland recap. If you missed part 1, check it out here.

Day 4: Vatnajokull National Park and Glacier Lagoon

We stayed at a hotel at the bast of Skaftafell at Vatnajokull National Park and woke up to gorgeous blue skies. Our first stop of the day was the Svaenafellsjokull Glacier. 
 Sv√≠nafellsj√∂kull Glacier - we hiked the glacier with crampons strapped to our hiking boots

Svínafellsjökull Glacier - we hiked the glacier with crampons strapped to our hiking boots
We took a walking tour on the glacier and were outfitted with metal crampons for better traction on the ice. (I'm always slipping whenever I try any type of hiking and I finally realized that hiking boots really do make a big difference compared to tennis shoes. I didn't have any falls on this trip and I was much more steady on my feet due to the grippy soles).

Svínafellsjökull Glacier - we hiked the glacier with crampons strapped to our hiking boots

Svínafellsjökull Glacier - we hiked the glacier with crampons strapped to our hiking boots Svínafellsjökull Glacier - we hiked the glacier with crampons strapped to our hiking boots
Looking back over where we walked. We parked on the dirt area and then twisted and turned up and over parts the glacier to get to this point.

Svínafellsjökull Glacier - we hiked the glacier with crampons strapped to our hiking boots
This was the only official tour that we took during our trip and I'm so glad that we were able to fit this in as it was such a great experience!

Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon
Our next stop was the glacial lagoon, Jokulsarlon. The crackling sounds of melting ice were so intense. From all the pictures I had seen, I was picturing it to be a quiet and serene place. It was more like listening to Rice Crispies soaking in milk!

Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon

Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon
We had fun posing throughout the week in our new sweaters in front of Icelandic hot spots. I'll share more pictures in my official post about the sweaters.

Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon

Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon
Then we walked out to where the lagoon feeds into the ocean and saw the glacier chunks headed out to sea.

glacial chunks out to sea
I loved checking out all of the pieces of washed up ice along the coast.

lava sand
The beach was filled with dark, fine lava sand that made ripping sounds as we walked.

Icelandic horses

Icelandic horses
Our last, unexpected, stop of the day was this little horse farm along the road. Icelandic horses all rock the super 80's hairdos, complete with natural highlights and frizzy bangs (my hair was starting to look like this, too, after all of the wind we experienced during the week).

Icelandic horses
Here's a fun piece of trivia for the horse lovers reading (because Jon thinks all girls go through a horse phase): Icelandic horses have a two additional types of gaits that they only they are able to do: the tolt (seen in this youtube video) and the pace (seen in this youtube video).

See more Day 4 pictures on flickr here.

Day 5: Fantastic Fjords and Charming fishing Villages
 town of Dj√∫pivogur 
We stayed at a Danish guest house in Djupivogur, which is located on the peninsula between two fjords. The weather didn't clear up for us by the time we had to leave, so we weren't able to get the full view of the town, but I loved checking out the coastline, nonetheless.

town of Dj√∫pivogur
Our first stop of the day was at Petra's Mineral Collection (facebook page link), which is the largest private rock collection in Iceland. Petra is a collector of many things and when people kept asking to check out her rock collection after seeing her home along the road, she started charging admission for people to check out her collections.

Petra's mineral collection
There was an older woman in the "gift shop" and I couldn't tell if it was Petra or not and didn't want to ask in case of possibly offending the woman, so I didn't say anything. After looking around online, I see that it was her in the shop. She was selling hand knit doll clothes and now I wish that I had talked with her and bought one of her sweaters.

 Petra's mineral collection
Her kitchen and bedroom were still in tact, but the rest of her home was filled with these display cases full of rocks.

Petra's mineral collection
She had so many collections around her home - matchboxes, pens, handkerchiefs, key chains, dolls, ornaments, spoons, etc. I loved checking out every nook and cranny of the place.

Petra's mineral collection

Petra's mineral collection
The gardens behind her home were beautiful and the rocks looked so pretty set off by all of the greenery.

Petra's mineral collection

Petra's mineral collection
She even had her own pair of painted stones in the garden (we saw these everywhere in Iceland).

Lagarfljot - home of the Lagarfljot dragon (similar to the loch ness monster)
Lagarfljot - home of the Lagarfljot dragon (similar to the loch ness monster). We thought this stylized dragon road sign was hilarious.

Lagarfljot - home of the Lagarfljot dragon (similar to the loch ness monster)
We spent a while checking out the lake and Jon taught me how to successfully skip stones. I got a few of my stones to skip three times in a row, while Jon was showing off with his stones that were skipping 15-20 times along the lake. Unfortunately, all of the hard work I put into spinning the stones correctly resulted in me having a sore right arm for the rest of the trip (man am I lame!)



Reindeer!
Random reindeer spotting along the road!

traditional turf house
Checking out a closed turf house museum along the road.

traditional turf house

typical Icelandic church 
We were in the middle of nowhere during some parts of our trip today with just our car, and lots of rocky, treeless terrain. We stopped for gas, tea and pastries in the small "town" next to this church.

typical mountain road

overlooking the town of M√Ωvatn
Overlooking the town of Myvatn.

our rental car
our rental car taking a rest after the hill workout from our day's adventures

N√°mafjall geothermal field
We felt like we were on another planet walking through Namafjall, a geothermal area filled with boiling mudpools and fumaroles. The sulfur (rotten eggs) smell was overwhelming, to say the least, but the landscape was stunning.

N√°mafjall geothermal field

N√°mafjall geothermal field

N√°mafjall geothermal field

Vogar Farm
Our most favorite lodging of the visit was our stay at the Vogar Farm. We couldn't find the hotel at first and mistakenly knocked on the front door of a house down a driveway labeled "Vogar" and interrupted a teenage guy eating dinner. Oops! We were nervous that we were going to be staying in someone's house at first, but he laughed and pointed us in the direction of the real farm/hotel and we pulled up to a cow shed - filled with cows. We weren't sure that we were in the right place, but as soon as we walked in the door marked "reception," we knew we were in for a treat.

Vogar Farm
There's a cafe on one side of the barn and a cow shed adjacent to it. You can actually sit in the restaurant and look through windows to watch the farmers milking cows and look at the cows resting in the barn. We walked through the barn after dinner and got to see the new calves and let some of the dairy cows smell us. Jon and I were totally dying from cute overload!

Vogar Farm

Vogar Farm

Vogar Farm

vegetable crepes and salad
We had our favorite meal of the trip here, vegetable crepes with a really delicious tossed mediterranean style salad. It was so good that we had the same thing for dinner the next night, too.

See more Day 5 pictures on flickr here.

Day 6: Lunar Landscapes and Lava Formations

We started the day off with trying to find the right road to our first stop. There were two roads marked on the map (one was forbidden and one was suggested with caution), but when we asked the farm receptionist about the road quality, she told us to use a newer, third road instead. She told us that the road was not marked, but it was paved and easily found. 

We ended up driving back and forth and back and forth trying to find the new road and, what do you know, there was a highway worker installing the sign for the formerly unmarked new road on our third pass by the road. How ironic!

Our first destination was Dettifoss. It is the largest (by volume) waterfall in Europe and it did not disappoint.
Dettifoss
We had to walk a few km through rocky terrain to get to the waterfall and we were covered in dirt by the end of our hike. I was really glad that I wasn't wearing contacts at this point!

Dettifoss
To give you some scale, Jon is standing along the edge of the cliff to the left of the photo in the red jacket.

Dettifoss
Here he is making his own spoof of the Double Rainbow video.

Dettifoss

Dettifoss

Selfoss
Selfoss (the waterfall upstream from Dettifoss)

driving through Asbyrgi canyon
Driving through Asbyrgi Canyon, which was said to have been formed in 3 days because of a catastrophic glacial flood. I had my camera out because sheep were everywhere!

Icelandic Sheep
Look at that gorgeous wool just calling out to be made into a sweater!

sheep booking it
This picture makes me laugh every time I see it!

sheep in the road 
These two were content to sit and watch us take their picture. (fun fact: sheep like licking the roads in Iceland because they are so salty.

northern coast of Iceland
I was so excited to finally see what Icelandic water looks like when it's sunny outside. The depth and vividness of color is incredible.

H√∫sivik
We stopped in Husavik for a late lunch and walk around the city. Husavik is known for whale watching, but we missed the last boat of the day and were running out of time, so we spent most of our time walking around the marina.

H√∫sivik 

H√∫sivik

crazy wind
We caught this hilarious picture of us with a self timer. Icelandic wind is so powerful. The wind makes it feel like riding down the highway with your car windows wide open is just a calm and relaxing ride.

cow crossing
We ran into a dairy cow crossing along our way. The farmer looked at us like we were crazy tourists (not denying that) after he saw Jon and I with our cameras out.

Sk√∫tusta√∞ir by Lake M√Ωvatn - semi craters
The last stop was at Skutustadir, these crater-like formations in the middle of Lake Myvatn. It was super windy and we were practically falling over trying to stand in one spot, but the water was dark blue and gorgeous!

Sk√∫tusta√∞ir by Lake M√Ωvatn - semi craters

Sk√∫tusta√∞ir by Lake M√Ωvatn - semi craters

new mittens * sheep
Here's one of my mittens that I purchased at the Vogar Farm gift store. The triangles are actually two shades of green, which you can't tell from this picture with the sheep. One of the cool things about seeing so many hand knit goods in shops around the country was getting to examine the construction of each item up close. Every gift shop was like visiting a hand knit museum!

M√Ωvatn Mineral bath - we had a late night dip in the geothermally heated baths
We watched the sun set from the comfort of the Myvatn Nature Baths. The water is geothermally heated and it was like swimming in a giant hot tub with a rocky floor.  The mineral baths and hot pots (chlorine free hot tubs) were my unexpected favorite part of the trip. So relaxing and so warm!

northern lights
We hadn't planned on looking for the Northern Lights, but we overheard the receptionist telling another farm guest that the best viewing times were from 2-4am and decided to set our alarm to wake up in the middle of the night. Jon got up at 3am to scope out the skies and then he got me out of bed so that I could see it too. Wow! The giant band went from one corner of the sky to another and was so much more vibrant (and less obstructed by clouds) than in this picture. By the time we got our camera gear in order, it was starting to fade, so this was the best shot that we got. I'm so glad Jon pulled me out of bed to see this!

See more Day 6 pictures on flickr here.

21 comments

  1. Wow. Just wow. Also, I'm glad Jon has a red jacket, so we can spot him in the pictures when he's far away.

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  2. Thanks so much for taking the time to put these posts on your trip together. I'm really enjoying them!

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  3. What a wonderful trip! Such a unique location--I guess I've never really given Iceland much thought. You've certainly expanded my horizons!

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  4. These posts and pictures are incredible. I think you should see about getting a job with Iceland's tourism agency because I am dying to go after seeing all these pictures. The picture of you and John with your crazy wind hair needs to be your holiday card for this year.

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  5. ok these are just amazing..think you guys should write a little tour book :-)
    And I agree with Melissa - these make me want to go visit now!

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  6. Unbelievable! Your photography is just stunning and is really making me want to go there. What a fantastic trip this must have been.

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  7. Good grief - this looks like an unforgettable trip. The landscape is so strange, but beautiful. Thank you so much for posting about your trip! My favorite pic is you two with your hair blowing straight up, lol.

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  8. Wow! The Northern Lights are so unbelievable!
    And tell Jon not every girl had a "horse phase." While my friends were dreaming of owning their own ponies, I was off building castles with Legos.

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  9. The glaciers that crackle and pop are my favorite, or maybe the chlorine free hot tubs, or all those sheep, too many wonderful things! You really had an amazing adventure, and it seemed to be more amazing after every turn! And you can tell Jon, I too never had a horse phase... a cow phase yes, but no horses for me :)

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  10. These pictures are great. I've been curious about a trip to Iceland, but this makes me want to visit...for sure!

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  11. Looks like it was an AMAZING trip! and these photos will bring back each and every memory! your sweaters look amazing...

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  12. Just finished DROOLING over your beautiful photos of Day Two and reading all of your adventures. Now I'm salivating to read about Day One. Thanks so much for sharing this! I don't know if I will ever make it over to Iceland, but at least this way I feel like I am experiencing it just a little bit. What a fantastic adventure you two had!

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  13. Okay it is official....I now want to go to Iceland. What amazing pictures and it looks like you guys had an awesome time. Thanks so much for sharing!

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  14. Your photography is stupendous! What an amazing landscape.

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  15. Gorgeous scenery! You guys were so lucky to go.

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  16. oh my goodness - so much amazingness on this trip!
    the glacier, the horses, the *sheep*!!! love it all! that last picture of the northern lights is spectacular.
    i'm so glad you posted so many pictures, i loved looking at each and every one of them!

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  17. holy cow! awesome photos!! thanks for sharing. i think i might just have to go to iceland...

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  18. Looks like you had a wonderful vacation - the photos are beautiful!

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  19. wow, wow and wow!
    iceland seems like such a feast of gorgeous blues! first of all, let me say that your sweaters are AWESOME and so impressive! i'm going to run right over to ravelry after this to favorite them!
    lindsey i did some glacier hiking years ago in norway and it was both one of the most terrifying and incredible things i've ever done. incredible!
    your mittens are totally adorable and WOWZA is that picture of the northern lights amazing! how lucky that you got to see them!

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  20. love your photos!! they makes me want go there!! what amazing place!

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  21. I lived in Iceland for a few years it was awesome,i made some great friends have some wonderful memories and i miss it very much. i love looking at your pictures.
    Thanks

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